KARIAD INGREDIENTS

THERAPEUTIC DESCRIPTIONS – this is copyrighted material only to be used to promote the sales of our Natural Skincare products.

Main Active Ingredients in our product range :-

ALOE VERA (Aloe Barbadensis)
Natural Aloe Vera pulp is the base of this crème (Aloe Barbadensis). Our Aloe comes from a whole leaf, cold pressed Aloe Vera grown in Mexico. It has Organic approval from the USA and has also passed the inspection of the International Aloe Science Council. Traditional remedies are often founded on firm scientific fact. Studies have confirmed Aloe vera as a rich source of healing ingredients that work synergistically, enhancing one another’s effects. These ingredients include vitamins, minerals, proteins, enzymes and amino acids.
Aloe vera extract acts in three main ways:
Anti-inflammatory - Inflammation is our body’s natural way of responding to infection, toxins or injury. It is characterised by redness, swelling and heat caused by an increase of blood to the damaged area. Plant steroids in Aloe vera can relieve inflammation, help to regenerate new cells and disperse damaged tissue with no side-effects.
Wound healer - Soapy substances in Aloe vera gel (saponins) cleanse wounds of dirt and debris, treat oil-clogged pores and help kill any microbes present. The woody, pulpy microfibres in Aloe Vera’s sap (lignins) soften hard skin and gently penetrate the tissues. The anthraquinones in Aloe vera loosen debris, pus and dead cells, bring blood to the area and flush out matter from wounds and ulcers. They also kill bacteria, some viruses and fungi. A biological growth stimulator present in Aloe vera helps to regenerate new tissue, guard against sepsis and promote the healing in cuts and wounds.
Antioxidants are essential for a healthy metabolism and to protect against free radicals that can damage the skin. Aloe vera contains naturally occurring antioxidants in the form of vitamins B complex, C and E, plus beta-carotene which is converted by the body into vitamin A. Dietary nutrients in Aloe vera also include potassium, calcium, magnesium, zinc, manganese, chromium and sodium.

SHEA BUTTER (Butyrospermum Parkii) KARITE
What sets Shea Butter apart from other seed oils is its exceptionally healing fraction, containing important nutrients, vitamins and other valuable phytonutrients. It is because of these unique healing properties that the Shea tree got its name, the Karite tree, which means the Tree of Life. Shea, the multi-purpose natural vitamin A butter, is derived from the seeds of the Shea tree. The butter is extracted and prepared without the use of chemicals. The best Shea Butter for skin use is prepared by cold press methods without use of added chemicals or preservative. Our organic Shea butter is produced by a Woman’s Co-operative in Ghana and is the best quality available in the world today. Pure, natural Shea has an earthy, nutty characteristic smell and lovely creamy beige colour. Its refined, white counterpart that many companies utilise has NOT the therapeutic qualities of the “real thing”.  Shea butter can help the following conditions :-
Dry skin & unknown rashes; skin damage & peeling after over-exposure to the sun; blemishes & wrinkles; itching skin; it can be used as a balm for irritated skin and after shaving; skin cracks & small skin wounds; rough, extremely dry & dehydrated skin on the body, hands & feet; stretch marks; skin allergies, eczema, dermatitis & psoriasis; muscle fatigue, aches & tension.

THEOBROMA GRANDIFLORUM SEED BUTTER (Cupuaçu)
Cupuaçu butter contains a natural plant estrogens that help repair dry, damaged skin and hair, restoring moisture retention and suppleness.

ASTRICARYUM MURUMURU SEED BUTTER
Murumuru butter, rich in oleic fatty acid, very moisturising and rich in Vitamin A (three times as much as in carrots), to nourish the skin. This butter can also be used as a hair pomade for very dry, brittle or curly hair types. Just use a tiny amount, spread over your palms and gently pat onto the hair strands. This special Brazilian butter is ideal for the treatment of lifeless or damaged hair, especially recommended for Afro-ethnic hair care. It helps to retain moisture, restore natural sheen & softness & improve the flexibility and elasticity of the hair.

CUCUMBER
Using cucumber for the skin is a natural way to nourish, sooth, and cleanse. Because of the numerous nutrients and phytochemicals found in this natural food. Cucumber flesh is an excellent moisturiser, giving a glowing complexion. It also supplies both ascorbic and caffeic acid. These compounds prevent swelling and are effective for the areas around the eyes. Cucumber skin is rich in vitamins and minerals, including vitamin A, E, magnesium, and potassium. Vitamin E is particularly beneficial, promoting healing, good blood circulation and strengthening capillary walls. The hard skin also contains silica, which is sometimes known as the beauty nutrient, used to reduce wrinkles and fine lines. This essential mineral strengthens the body's connective tissue, benefiting not only the skin, but also the hair and nails.

METHYLSILANOL MANNURONATE (ALGISIUM C)
Opposes the harmful effects of cytotoxic peroxides by a scavengingeffect and increase of the cell membrane resistance.
Anti-glycation action.
One of the cardinal processes of aging, apart from free-radical damage, is the process of glycosylation (or glycation). During normal, everyday metabolism, sugar aldehydes may react with the mino acids on the protein molecule. The result is the formation of AGEs (Advance Glycosylation End-products). These are abnormal, cross-linked. oxidised products which are thought to cause extensive damage to the organism. Carnosine blocks this deleterious reaction. protecting against cross-linking of proteins, cross-linking of proteins to DNA molecules, and formation of other abnormal proteins, all of which are fundamental features of the aging process.
Cutaneous moisturisation.
Lipolytic action, slimming action.
Skin regeneration and maintenance, anti-aging.

“Algisium-C – an ingredient designed to reduce the appearance of stretch marks; it firms up, improves elasticity and skin suppleness. It protects from free radical attacks; mositurises intensively, and activates collagen synthesis. A wonderful hydrator promoting collagen production, which in turn helps healing.”

VEGETABLE GLYCERINE
Vegetable glycerine is a natural humectant that draws moisture to itself. Its emollient properties are soothing and softening and can also assist the skin to retain moisture.

SQUALANE
Squalane is derived from Olive oil and is absorbed quickly by the skin. It is colourless, transparent and is fragrance free. This clear fluid oil has a natural affinity to the skin, being one of the main components of the human sebum and the hydrolipidic film. It is a polyfunctional product, with exceptional abilities for skin absorption. It prevents moisture loss and restores the skin suppleness and flexibility. Human skin naturally produces small amounts of squalane, but with the aging process squalane production decreases. Clinical studies confirm that the use of squalane in skin care products helps soften skin, and reduce fine facial wrinkles.

JOJOBA (Simmondsia Chinensis)
This shrub is native to the desert areas of Arizona, California and Mexico, and the hard nutty seeds of the Jojoba plant yield the waxy liquid known as Jojoba oil, it adopts many of the properties of human sebum when used on the skin or hair of humans. It is a very important ingredient in hair and skincare products, since its properties are very similar to human sebum and it therefore aids the healing process of damaged skin. Sebum is a fatty substance released by the sebaceous glands, found in most areas of the body except the palms of the hands and soles of the feet. This sebum waterproofs the skin, keeps it from getting dry and cracked, and inhibits the growth of unwanted bacteria on the skin. It is therefore a rich moisturiser and quickly restores elasticity to the skin.
Jojoba oil is practically odourless, penetrates the skin readily for maximum moisture absorption, and is suitable for all skin types.
It is an incredible fact that most common bacteria and skin fungus cannot survive in an environment where they are exposed to Jojoba oil, and it has been found that this wonder oil kills staphylococcus (a type of bacteria that causes infections). Dermatological tests on Jojoba oil show that it increases the suppleness of skin by 45% when used, with this effect still noticeable eight hours after application and also used regularly on the skin, Jojoba oil reduces superficial facial lines by up to 30%. Jojoba oil also acts as an anti-inflammatory on the skin due to it containing myristic acid, so Jojoba oil is a good choice for sufferers of psoriasis, eczema, dandruff and other itching, irritating skin conditions where the skin becomes inflamed. Jojoba does not aggravate conditions like acne, since it functions to break down sebum build ups in clogged pores.

AVOCADO PEAR OIL (Persea Gratissima)
Avocado Pear oil to make a fabulous butter that is rich, creamy and highly moisturising. Contains: vitamins A. B1, B2, Pantothenic acid, vitamins D, E, protein, lecithin, fatty acids, especially oleic which it has between 60-80%. It is an exceptionally nourishing oil for dry and dehydrated skin and improves its elasticity. The oil’s moisturising and skin softening properties make it an important oil to use for anti-wrinkle and anti-aging skin types and it also is reputed to have healing properties and is ranked best sunscreen by the Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology when compared to other naturally derived oils. Avocado oil is reputed to be more penetrating than most other carrier oils.

ARGAN OIL organic (Argana Spinosa)
Our organic Argan oil is rich in vitamin E and essential natural fatty acids, is recognised for its nutritive, regenerating, restructuring properties and the very important ability to renew cell structure as well as improving the elasticity of the skin. It is a very effective moisturiser for dry skin and reduces the appearance of facial lines. The oil is completely non-irritant and is non-comedogenic (does not clog the pores) and is suitable for all skin types and can be used for the face, hands and body. After extensive research, Argan is being called the new "wonder oil" that helps to reduce wrinkles by restoring the skin's water lipid layer and it also cools and soothes inflammation.

RUBUS IDAEUS (RASPBERRY) SEED OIL
Raspberry oil is high in natural tocopherols and essential fatty acids and we use it in our Medium SPF Sun Protection Cream and in our Raspberry Whipped Butter Silk.  The oil is very dry and thin, therefore does not leave a greasy film on the skin. It is excellent for sensitive skin and is very nourishing, softening and conditioning with a lipid barrier providing protection and hydration for the skin.  It may also be used in the sunscreen industry due to its UV absorbing properties. It contains a sun protection factor (SPF) of between 28 and 50 and contains extremely high levels of alpha and gamma tocopherols (vitamin E), vitamin A, approximately 30% of omega 3 and 54% of omega 6 fatty acids and 14% Omega 9, so with approximately 84% content of essential fatty acids, it gives the skin a vital broad spectrum defence from harmful UVA and UVB rays. 

HAZELNUT OIL (organic)
A light, sweet and nutty oil that we buy from a local organic manufacturer here in Dordogne, France. It is a fabulous, natural oil that penetrates the skin quickly, leaving no greasy residue. Hazelnut oil has proved to be very effective in tightening the skin, thereby acting as a superb toner for the skin. It also aids in the regeneration of cells and strengthening of capillaries.

TOCOPHEROL NATURAL VITAMIN E
Vitamin E is a classic antioxidant, which protects against the destruction of the connective tissue caused by free radicals. Natural Vitamin E does not significantly activate itself in the product, so won't help to prevent your product from going rancid but it does activate itself when coming into contact with the skin, working as an antioxidant. From our experience of working with Vitamins on the skin, we believe that the Natural Vitamin E has better healing properties than the Simulated Vitamin E. Contains 1250 IU per 1gr. Add while the product is under 40 DegC. Antioxidants are intimately involved in the prevention of cellular damage. Free radicals are atoms or groups of atoms with an odd (unpaired) number of electrons and can be formed when oxygen interacts with certain molecules. Once formed these highly reactive radicals can start a chain reaction, like dominoes. Their chief danger comes from the damage they can do when they react with important cellular components such as DNA, or the cell membrane. Cells may function poorly or die if this occurs. To prevent free radical damage the body has a defence system of antioxidants.
Antioxidants are molecules which can safely interact with free radicals and terminate the chain reaction before vital molecules are damaged. Although there are several enzyme systems within the body that scavenge free radicals, the principle micronutrient (vitamin) antioxidants are vitamin E, beta-carotene and vitamin C.

CASTOR OIL (Ricinus Communis)
Castor oil is a triglyceride of fatty acids and almost 90% of its fatty acid content consists of Ricinoleic acid. Such a high concentration of this unusual, unsaturated fatty acid is responsible for castor oil's remarkable healing abilities.  Castor oil is extracted from the seed of the castor oil plant, whose botanical name is Ricinus Communis. It has been used therapeutically and medicinally worldwide. This oil is also known as Palma Christi or the "Palm of Christ” because the shape of the plant's leaves were thought to resemble the palm of Christ. Castor oil is very viscous, colourless oil and contains approx. 90% Ricinoleic fatty acid. Ricinoleic is an unsaturated Omega-9 fatty acid and has remarkable anti-inflammatory properties. It is an effective emollient and skin softener and is effective to assist the healing of skin disorders.

EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL (Olea Europaea)
Olive oil is well documented for its benefits to the skin and has a high percentage of nutritious and regenerative Oleic fatty acid that keeps the skin soft and supple. It can help maintain the elasticity of the skin, heal dry, chapped skin, brittle nails and add a conditioning glow to the complexion. Our Olive oil is the top grade Extra Virgin oil that comes from the first pressing of the fruit, it is high in antioxidants, including Vitamin E. Antioxidants are nutritional powerhouses that protect against age-accelerating, damaging free radicals. The oil from this miraculous fruit guards the body and your skin from inside and out. Spain is the world’s leading olive and olive oil producer and exporter, with more than 300 million olive trees growing on 5 million acres of groves. The annual oil production amounts to around 1,000,000 metric tones and approximately 80% is grown in Andalucía. There are many different types of olive but the main cultivated strains from Seville province, where we buy our oil, are Arbequina, Picual, Hojiblanco and Manzanillas. The harvest season for oil production is between November and February when the fruit is dark and ripe. Extra virgin olive oil is the oil obtained from the first pressing of the fruit. After the fruit is washed with water, the fruit and stone are crushed and the resulting paste is then transferred to a hydraulic press. Each olive produces around 2-3 drops of oil and around 11 kilos of fruit are needed to produce 1 kilo of oil. Olives must be processed as soon as possible after harvesting to ensure an acidity of less than 1%.  The acidity refers to the content of free fatty acids with 1 degree equal to 1 gram of Oleic Acid per 100 gram of oil. It is this first pressing of extra virgin oil that we use in the manufacture of our products – unfiltered with the suspension of fruit particles remaining after pressing. Olive oil also contains Squalane which has the ability to help the skin to retain moisture while nourishing and providing protection for all skin types, especially dry and sensitive. It is non-greasy and non-comedogenic (does not clog the pores). It has also been proven to accelerate the healing process due to its Vitamin E content. Our skin also contains Squalane and the composition is very similar to the Olive fruit Squalane, which is why the oil penetrates and feeds the skin so effectively.

VITAMIN C (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate)
This is a new, stable Vitamin C derivative that overcomes the oxidation problems normally associated with ascorbic acid and demonstrates proven effects on the skin. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate penetrates the skin and is converted to free vitamin C by enzymes present in the skin. Vitamin C can scavenge and destroy aggressive oxidizing agents and radicals in the skin: hydroperoxides and lipoperoxides, aggressors that are formed in the skin as a result of a wide range of environmental influences in everyday life, but particularly, intensive exposure to sunlight. Vitamin C also promotes the formation of collagen.

SIBERIAN GINSENG EXTRACT (Eleutherococcus Senticosus)
This is a naturally active extract consisting primarily of the complex polysaccharides and associated glycoproteins from the Siberian Ginseng root. It is a skin-tightening ingredient that can help to physically lift sagging skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

ROSEMARY ANTI-OXIDANT
One of the new generation antioxidants, which meets our demands for using only natural, botanical, functional and effective additives. The active components have been extracted using supercritical CO2.

NATURAL MOISTURISING FACTOR
(Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Urea, Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein, Sodium Ph)
Binds moisture deeper into the epidermis and adds 60-70% more moisture. Made from, amongst other natural ingredients, Soya Beans and Asparagus Extract.

CAFFEINE
100% pure Caffeine Powder has skin firming, toning, and astringent effects. It works to eliminate puffiness and helps to eradicate wrinkles. It improves circulation to the surface area to which it is applied and is used in most natural products that are anti-cellulite.

ESSENTIAL OILS
We use a very large range of Aromatherapy quality 100% pure essential oils for their various therapeutic benefits for the skin. We will be talking about these in detail on our blog in the near future (when time allows) !

HONEY (Miel)
Refines pores; tightens skin; moisturises; reduces wrinkles; anti-blemish.
The natural active ingredients in this super active gel give the following effects:-
Ultra firming, the gel helps fight signs of cellulite & orange peel skin.
Enriched with active ingredients, the gel provides draining effects to eliminate toxins and fatty tissues while increasing skin's firmness and elasticity.
It has visible, immediate effects and the skin feels smooth and refreshed.
The natural actives work in synergy that strengthen the skin’s tissues, stimulate the circulation and moisturise the skin efficiently. Clarifies and purifies.

CARROT OIL (Carota Sativa)
Rich in beta-carotene which contains high percentages of Vitamin A and also vitamins B, C, D & E and is reported to have a protective, nourishing, purifying, rejuvenative, also having a mild sunscreen effect for the skin naturally. Carrot Oil contains carotenoids, antioxidants which are abundant in carrots. Carotenoids, when topically applied, reduce the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation which is why this oil is often used in sun and after-sun products.

CHERRY KERNEL OIL (Prunus Avium)
Cherry kernel oil contains a polyunsaturated fatty acid called "eleostrearic". Eleostrearic is considered to play an important role in the production of prostaglandins, which are an important group of hormones that control cell metabolism. It is high in lineoleic (approx 45%), oleic (approx. 30%) and linolenic (approx. 10%) fatty acids and also contains natural antioxidants, alpha, delta and gamma tocopherols plus vitamins A & E. It is a beautiful, light, balanced oil and gives an instant moisturising effect for the skin.

BROMELAIN
Bromelain is a natural enzyme found in pineapple. Bromelain is not a single substance, but rather a collection of enzymes and other compounds. It is a mixture of sulfur-containing protein-digesting enzymes—called proteolytic enzymes or proteases—and several other substances in smaller quantities including: peroxidase, acid phosphatase, protease inhibitors and calcium. Studies indicate that bromelain (applied to the surface of the skin) may be useful in removing dead tissue, Bromelain can be used to dissolve dead skin cells and this makes it great for a natural exfoliant that can be used on the face or body to get rid of older skin cells, leaving skin smooth, clear & bright. The Pineapple extract that we use in this product also has a significant lymphatic drainage effect, useful to use on the body to relieve symptoms of cellulitis. When applied externally, bromelain and the citric, and malic acids in pineapple juice will “eat” dead skin cells and dirt from the surface of the skin, stimulating and brightening it. These acids are alpha hydroxy acids or AHA's. Pineapple's alpha hydroxy acids and enzymatic Bromelain content will bring soothing and clarifying effects when used on the skin, particularly good for tired and dull or mature skin that has been neglected as it has both a stimulating and calming effect. The new skin revealed after and application of this peel will be brighter and the signs of ageing, such as discolouration and wrinkling will be reduced.

LACTIC ACID
Lactic Acid is a non-irritating rapid exfoliator (without having to use a scrub material). If you have sensitive skin, lactic acid should work well for you. Because Lactic Acid is a naturally occurring human metabolite, there is much less chance of allergic reaction using this type of acid peel. If you are looking for a peel with a good acidic value and with virtually no irritation, then this product is for you. Loosens and removes the surface debris on the skin. Softens blackheads. Deep cleans pores. Softens fine lines. Extremely effective at stimulating natural collagen production for a fresh, moistened look. Great for mature skin.
What Are Alpha Hydroxy Acids and How Do They Work?
Alpha-hydroxy acids are naturally occurring acids, derived from the sugars in particular plants. Some examples are Glycolic Acid (Sugar Cane), Lactic Acid (Milk), Tartaric Acid (Grapes), Citric Acid (Citrus Fruits), Malic Acid (Apples), and Mandelic Acid (Bitter Almonds). These acids work at the very base of the stratum corneum, dissolving the cement that holds dead skin cells together. This increases cell turnover and influences the structure of new stratum corneum being made. This results in skin that is more flexible, smoother, and more even in tone. At greater concentrations (12%-20%), deeper dermal effects, such as higher amounts of mucopolysaccharides and collagen and increased skin thickness, are observed. Eventually, alpha hydroxy acids will produce skin that is softer, smoother, less wrinkled, less dehydrated, and more even in skin tone.
The Myths
There is a lot of information out about alpha hydroxy acids, however, much of it is misleading or simply untrue. Separating the truth from the rumours can be nearly impossible for the average person. Here are a few of the common myths surrounding alpha hydroxy acids.
Myth #1: Alpha hydroxy acids thin the skin. Actually, it is quite the opposite. AHA's at greater bioavailability appear to have dermal affects that influence the formation of collagen. Alpha hydroxy acids, on topical application to photoaged skin, have been shown to substantially increase skin thickness. Skin biopsies revealed increased synthesis of mucopolysaccharides and collagen as well.
Myth #2: Alpha hydroxy acids cause sun sensitivity. Used correctly, alpha hydroxy acids do not increase sun sensitivity. Sun sensitivity occurs when skin is irritated and inflammation occurs. Those with very fair colouring are especially susceptible to this since their skin tends to be more sensitive. Avoiding high concentrations (15% or more) or products with pH's lower than 3 can help avoid this. For those with more sensitive skin, use of a non-irritating AHA such as mandelic acid, lactic acid, or gluconolactone (gluconic acid) will help one avoid this problem.
Myth #3: Anti-Wrinkle benefits of AHA's are due to their exfoliating nature. While it is true that the exfoliating nature of AHA's contribute to softer skin that is more even in tone, the clinical effects of AHA's in modifying wrinkles and photoaging are due to increased skin thickness and new collagen formation.
Myth #4: When using AHA's, the skin looks smoother because the skin is swollen from inflammation. Improvements in wrinkles are not due to inflammation or any oedema formation (excess accumulation of fluid in tissue spaces). Examination of biopsied skin specimens before and after treatment with AHA’s has confirmed that skin plumpness and other beneficial effects are sustained long after discontinuation of topical treatment.
Not all alpha hydroxy acids are created equal. Some are more irritating or more moisturising, some are better for breakouts, and some are stronger than others. Lactic acid is most often found in moisturisers due to its more moisturising properties. Lactic acid is a natural humectant that draws and holds water in the upper layers of the skin. Alpha hydroxy acids as a whole can increase the skin's ability to trap water due to an increased production of natural skin moisturisers (hyaluronic acid), but lactic acid's extra humectant properties make it even more ideal for treating dry skin. Lactic acid's larger molecule size makes it less irritating than glycolic acid. Also, because lactic acid is naturally found in the human body, it is not likely to cause an allergic reaction in those with reactive skin. Lactic Acid is ideal for those with slightly sensitive, dry skin or allergy-prone skin.

SODIUM HYALURONATE (Hyaluronic Acid)
This miracle ingredient is the key water maintaining substances in human skin. Bad living environment and aging can cause the decrease of HA content in skin, and as a result the water maintaining ability of the skin is weakened and the skin looks dry and rough .One of the main causes of skin ageing is also the decrease of polysaccharides, such as HA. The special structure characteristic of HA makes it has high moisturising and water content regulating function and its properties augment the elasticity of the skin. When HA solution is applied on the surface of skin, it can form an air permeable layer and keep the skin moist and smooth. Small molecular weight HA can penetrate into dermis layer, fully combine with water, promote skin blood microcirculation and nutrient absorption and maintain normal metabolism, and as a result it plays a role of decreasing the depth of wrinkles.

MEADOWFOAM SEED OIL (Limnanthes Alba)
This natural oil is an excellent moisturiser in emulsion-based products due to high water absorption ability (twice that of the typical mineral oil petroleum based materials that are used in a high percentage of lotions and creams), one of the most stable oils that doesn’t oxidise, penetrates instantly into the skin, leaving no greasy after-feel. It also has high levels of Tocopherol – natural Vitamin E and offers anti-oxidant activity making it a good oil for use in anti-ageing aromatherapy applications. Meadowfoam Seed Oil contains approximately 1% saturated fat, 2% oleic acid (an omega-9 fatty acid), 9% erucic acid (an omega-9 fatty acid), 60% ecosenoic acid, 4% linoleic acid (an omega-6 essential fatty acid), 4% delta linolenic acid (an omega-3 essential fatty acid) and just under 1% alpha linolenic acid (an omega-3 essential fatty acid). It is often used to replace Jojoba liquid wax (as it has similar characteristics, but is lighter and absorbed easier by the skin) and adds a wonderful sheen to the epidermis.

COPOLYMER / POLYMER
This is a raw material that is an instant emulsifier that is also a thickener and stabiliser. By using this ingredient, we can make all our formulas in a cold process method, without the use of waxes, which are very often palm oil based (we have a policy of no-palm oil for our product ranges) and need to be heated to very high temperatures. Also, because all three phases of producing an emulsion need to be at the same temperature, this means that precious, expensive oils and extracts, lose a high percentage of their therapeutic qualities because of this heating phase. We avoid this by using this copolymer, in this way, protecting and securing the wonderful qualities of all the vegetal oils that we use.  This is the only synthetic material that we use, we have experimented with dozens of natural emulsifiers, but because of the hot process problem, we have decided to use this material, as it makes it possible to manufacture COLD process lotions and creams that contain no waxes and are therefore rich, moisturising and light.  This copolymer is also ethoxylate free and hence suitable even for products formulated for sensitive skin types – safe and non-irritating.

NATICIDE (PARFUM NATURAL)
Most of the skincare products we manufacture are preservative free. They are naturally protected with a new, innovative raw material called “Naticide”.  It is a vegetable derivative natural fragrance with remarkable microbial growth inhibiting properties. It is obtained through a particular and reserved process, according to IFRA (International Fragrance Association) recommendations. Its INCI name is “Parfum” (natural).

BETAINE
Natural Betaine (not to be confused with the chemical Cocamidopropyl Betaine which is a chemical detergent and thickener often used in shampoos, shower gels and bath products).
This fantastic material from nature and comes from sugar beets is a very effective moisturiser, it is completely anti-irritant, it stimulates collagen production, it enhances the synthesis of hyaluronic acid (naturally occurring in our skin) to create better absorption.  It is therefore an exceptional natural skin moisturiser that helps maintain cell function even under stressful environments helping to prevent skin ageing. It also protects and strengthens – we use it for all these reasons and also in our facial wash as it is a natural foam enhancer.

PANTHENOL (PRO-VITAMIN B5)
Panthenol binds water in the outer skin layer and penetrates the skin and the top layer of nails, follicles and hair. It creates an invisible, protective film making skin supple and the hair soft and easy to handle. Some studies also report that Panthenol will prevent hair damage caused by overheating and over drying hair and scalp. It conditions hair without build-up and reduces damage from split ends.

ROSEHIP OIL (Rosa Rubiginosa)
Rosehip is the only vegetable oil that contains natural Retinoic acid (Vitamin A). The oil pressed from the Rosehip seed contains an amazing 77% of fatty acids - Linoleic fatty acid (Omega 6) and Linolenic fatty acids (Omega 3) and they belong to what we call essential fatty acids often known as Vitamin-F.  Fatty acids have very important functions in the regeneration of skin cells and repair of damaged tissues. Over the years, Rosehip oil has been shown to retard the signs of premature ageing and provide excellent results in the treatment of scars and unsightly spots on skin. If applied consistently during two or three months it is found to reduce wrinkles and signs of premature ageing. It will also help counter the drying effects of the sun that are usually first noticed in fine wrinkles or "crow’s feet" around the eyes and mouth.

STARFLOWER OIL cold pressed Borage Seed oil (Borago Officinalis)
With an exceptional high content of Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA), a substance the body needs to create prostaglandins. A good source of Omega 3 & 6 oils.  Borage oil has also been used to treat people with eczema, with reductions in skin inflammation, dryness, rough skin and itching. The most important dietary Omega 6 essential fatty acid is Linoleic acid, which occurs in large quantities in plant oils. GLA is extracted from plants that are rich in this fatty acid and the highest natural content is found in this fantastic medicinal herb.

BLACKCURRANT SEED OIL (Ribes Nigrum)
Blackcurrant seed oil has a rich content of Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA) as explained above, it is an important ingredient for maintaining the elasticity of the skin and is excellent for dry, devitalised, damaged and aging skin. It is also very effective in treatments for sensitive skin, eczema and psoriasis.

PAPAYA SEED OIL (Carica Papaya)
The oil is extracted from the seed of the papaya fruit (also known as paw paw) and is rich in the omega 9 essential fatty acid. Papaya seed oil is an exceptionally stable oil, with a shelf life of 2-3 years. Historically, Indian healers have made pastes from crushed papaya seeds to treat rashes and other skin problems. The oil has high quantities of oleic acid, up to 74% and generally its fatty acid composition is very close to that of olive oil. It has moisturising, nourishing and water-retaining qualities, keeping the skin smooth and hydrated. It is a good oil for treating rashes and minor skin problems. It has both anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal properties making it a very useful, active emollient for personal care products.

MELON OIL (Citrillus Lanatus/Vulgaris)
A light oil, suitable for fragile and sensitive skin types that has moisturising, regenerating and restructuring properties. It contains high levels of linoleic fatty acid, which is very conditioning and mild. It is moisturising and beneficial for all skin types but also interesting for greasy and combination skins as it is good for balancing oil production, while being restorative & nourishing. These qualities also make it suitable for baby formulations and it is especially useful as it has a long and stable shelf life. Unlike mineral oil that is a common ingredient in most creams and lotions, natural vegetal oils like Melon (and all the other natural oils we use) do not clog the pores and help the body to naturally eliminate toxins through the skin.

WALNUT OIL (to follow)

MONOI DE TAHITI (Coconut (Cocos Nucifera) oil + Tiare (Gardenia Tahitensis) flower
This is beautiful and naturally perfumed oil which has been traditionally used by Tahitian women to protect their skin and hair. It is obtained by soaking the flower petals (Gardenia Tihensis) in virgin Coconut oil. It is easily and quickly absorbed by the skin, and is a superbly effective moisturiser with a wonderful exotic, sensual aroma. Genuine Monoi de Tahiti is protected worldwide by an Appellation d'Origine (Guarantee of Origin) designation, which proves its authenticity.

GHASSOUL MUD
Sourced from deep below the Atlas Mountains in Morocco, Ghassoul (also known as Rhassoul Clay) derives its name from the Arabic (ghassala), meaning to wash. Used as a natural beautifier for over 1400 years by Berber women, it was later discovered and adopted by women of ancient Egypt and Rome. Now its therapeutic benefits are acclaimed by prestigious spas around the world.
Ghassoul is particularly esteemed for its ability to exfoliate the skin gently as it cleanses and detoxifies. Its unique mineral composition — high in silica, magnesium, potassium, and calcium — renders Ghassoul superior to other clays: it creates a fantastic degree of ion exchange. The effect is a high level of absorption and adsorption, so that, when applied to the skin, the clay draws out excess oils and impurities from deep within the pores.

DEAD SEA MUD
The Dead Sea is a saline lake. Its dimensions are: 76 km length, up to 17 km width, 1,050 sq. km and 365 m depth. It is located 400 meters (1,300 feet) below sea level and is the lowest point on the surface of the earth. Today it is a part of the Jordan Valley and it is located in the Syrian-African Rift Valley. Modern medical researches confirm that positive combination of the minerals and salts from the Dead Sea has healing properties for different skin allergies and diseases. Conditions like psoriasis, eczema, acne and rashes have been alleviated by these minerals. It also encourages better blood circulation and can help relieve dermatitis and dandruff. We buy the actual live mud and not the powder, its a wonderful natural product.

SWEET ALMOND OIL (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) 

This nut oil is a natural skin food, it is an extremely nutritious natural oil and has been used in skincare preparations since ancient Roman times. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis is the fixed oil obtained from the ripe seed of the Sweet Almond tree and is classified as a fat and oil as well as a natural fragrance ingredient. One of its greatest attributes is that it is non-comedogenic (does not block the pores) and is highly moisturising and softening.  We combine Coconut oil for a perfect mix with the Almond oil. The small molecular structure of Coconut oil allows for easy absorption through the skin, giving it a soft, smooth texture. It makes an ideal oil for the relief of dry, rough and wrinkled skin but because of its light quality it is also suitable for oily or congested skin types.
Conventional body care products that are made with refined vegetable oils which have all the antioxidants stripped from them are highly prone to free-radical generation both in and outside the body. This is the reason why you should be careful about the type of oils you use on your skin, and in your lotions and creams. If you use a lotion or cream with a refined oil in it you are in fact causing your skin to age faster. The product, though it may bring temporary improvement will actually accelerate the aging of the skin and even promote skin cancer through the free radicals that are readily formed from the refined vegetable oil.
Our products only contain the highest quality, cold pressed vegetable, fruit and nut oils to maintain and improve the health of your skin. Use daily for hands, body and feet.

DEHYDROXANTHAN GUM
This completely natural gum which thickens products very effectively is a polysaccharide is produced by fermentation of glucose or sucrose with the Xanthomonas Campestris. It is very useful to our formulas, because it works on all pH levels without leaving a sticky feel on skin or hair. It is used at very low percentages between 0.25% and 1%.

HAMMAMELIS VIRGINIANA (Witch Hazel)
Witch Hazel is a natural hydrosol that has strong anti-oxidant and astringent properties, which makes it very useful in fighting acne. It is used as a natural remedy for many skin problems, including psoriasis, eczema, varicose veins, haemorrhoids, shaving rashes, excessive sweating, insect bites, in-growing nails and generally assisting to heal damaged skin. 

SODIUM LAURYL SULFOACETATE
All sulphates aren’t bad! This is derived from coconut oil; a safe, skin-friendly surfactant (foaming agent) for both skin and hair. This mild plant derived surfactant creates a rich, luxurious lather that effectively removes surface oil, dirt and bacteria, without stripping or drying sensitive skin. Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate is also hydrophilic. This means it is attracted to water, which enables it to dissolve more readily in water, thus providing superior rinseablility. It is listed on the official “naturals” list recommended by the Natural Products Steering Committee and approved by the Association’s Board.

SODIUM LAUROYL OAT AMINO ACIDS
A completely natural foaming cleanser, this is the condensation of the protein hydrolysate derived from Avena Sativa (oats) and lauric acid. Oat-based functional materials act without damaging or denaturing the proteins of the horny layer and without having the undesired effects common to so many surfactants. Oat protein is rich in arginine, lysine and cysteine, which are known to stimulate epidermal renewal of keratinocytes. The keratinocyte is the major constituent of the epidermis (outer layer of the skin), constituting 95% of the cells found there. It is perfect for all skin types, even fragile and delicate types. It is non-irritant and non-toxic, has a neutral pH and is non-evasive for the environment.

ERYTHRULOSE
Erythrulose is formulated as a high performance self-tanning product, is a natural keto-sugar, which reacts with free primary or secondary amino acid groups to form the polymer, “Melanoidin”. For optimal results Erythrulose is used in combination with DHA (Dihydroxyacetone – please see below). It achieves a natural, long-lasting, non-streaking radiant glow with no nasty after smell.

SOAPWORT
Also known as Saponaria, this natural plant cultivated for their attractive flowers; they grow freely in any soil and under most conditions. The crushed leaves or roots have been used as a soap since the Renaissance, it also makes a fine shampoo.

DIHYDROXYACETONE (DHA)
DHA in your sunless tanner is derived from a vegetable source, usually sugar beets. DHA reacts with proteins in the skin thereby forming melanoidin-like brown compounds within 2 hours producing a suntanned appearance, this tan does not protect against UV-rays like the melanin-tan produced by sunbathing.

LECITHIN
A natural emulsifier and natural lipid (occurs in most living cells) consisting of 4 phospholipids (phosphatidyl choline, -ethanolamin, -serin, -inositol), capable of binding water & fats (emulsifier), derived from soybeans.

ALPHA GLUCOSYL HESPERIDIN
For centuries in Japan, citrus peels have been added to hot bath water both for their relaxing aromatic effects and to provide ‘a body warming sensation’ after bathing. It is now understood that hesperidin, which belongs to a class of natural substances known as bioflavanoids, is an active component of citrus peel and is responsible for the body warming sensation by stimulating circulation to the skin. Glucosyl hesperidin is composed of natural glucose and hesperidin, the high solubility of glucosyl hesperidin makes it extremely suitable for use in skin care and bathing products. It is stable at high temperatures and over a wide range of pH conditions. It can help correct many skin problems e.g. dark circles under the eyes, dull skin and puffy skin. Lack of circulation to the skin can be caused by day-to-day stress, a cold climate, lack of exercise or lack of sleep; but the result is always the same: tired, older looking skin. Glucosyl hesperidin has been scientifically shown to improve circulation when applied to the skin, therefore helping to overcome the negative physical effects caused by stress, tiredness and cold. By stimulating surface circulation Glucosyl hesperidin can effectively treat these problems.

ZINC OXIDE
A white powder produced from naturally occurring zinc ore with superior purity (free from other metals). Cosmetic grade particle size 200-1000 nanometer (nm) or 0.2-1 micrometer (µm). Zinc Oxide is an absorber of the full UV spectrum of sun rays (short UVB to long UVA), it also has soothing effects and is widely used against skin irritations and problematic skin types, it has anti-fungal properties. Its whitening effect on skin makes it also useful for makeup products where it is used as a natural coverage.

TITANIUM DIOXIDE
Micronized white pigment of crystalline structure with a high refractive index and a great ability to reflect and scatter light, primary particle size 10-20 nm, derived from the naturally occurring mineral “Ilmenite”. This ultrafine, fluffy white powder, odourless and dispersible in water, oils & triglycerides. For us it is secondary to Zinc Oxide, but it is a top grade sunscreen for broad spectrum UV protection (improved UV-A potential) and leaves no white film on the skin. The wavelength is from the short-wavelength UVB (290-320nm) to the longest type I UVA (340-380nm).

KOJIC ACID
Kojic Acid (5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4-pyrone) is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice. It is a mild inhibitor of the formation of pigment in plant and animal tissues, used also to preserve or change colours in food and cosmetics. It is a de-pigmenting agent and fights age spots by inducing skin lightening and helps to establish an even skin tone on all skin types. It also fades and minimises liver spots (age spots).

SOY RICE PEPTIDES INCI: Oxido-reductases, soy peptides, hydrolyzed rice bran extract
A botanical active complex consisting of yeast enzymes (oxido-reductases), soy peptides & rice peptides (hydrolyzed rice bran extract). It dramatically reduces dark circles & puffiness around the eyes (clinical studies showed 35% reduction after 8 weeks treatment), also improving skin smoothness & texture and the microcirculation of the blood in the skin. An essential ingredient in all eye products.

CITRIC ACID
Naturally occurs in citric fruits and is produced by fermentation of carbohydrates. We use it to adjust pH of our products and at high concentrations it shows AHA properties i.e. moisturising, peeling, smoothing and anti-wrinkle effects. It can also neutralise minerals to enhance the activity of antioxidants and preservatives and has a buffering effect i.e. it helps to maintain the pH and stabalises active ingredients.

BENTONITE CLAY
Natural earth pigments.

SALICYLIC ACID
Organic beta hydroxy acid, it occurs naturally in various plants. It is a proven anti-acne agent due to its antiseptic properties and is a very effective keratolytic agent (an exfoliant within skin pores). It is used for skin peels, anti-dandruff, antipsoriatic, anti-seborrheic & anti-warts treatments at various dilutions.

MICA
Plain white mica that gives a natural shimmer pigment from the mineral Muscovite Mica (potassium aluminum silicate). Translucent & colourless (we also use coloured mica that is coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxides). Cosmetic-grade fineness (particle size < 15 microns). It is a filler & texturiser for improved skin feel, it increases slip & aids skin adhesion, acts as bulking agent in emulsions, reduces the greasiness of oil-containing formulas and can be used to replace talc. It has anti-caking properties (prevents clumping) and is used in natural mineral make up and cosmetics also.

KONJAC GLUCOMANNA GEL POWDER
Konjac Glucomannan Gel Powder is a polysaccharide made out of the tuber of Amorphophallus Konjac. The plant belongs to the family of Araceae which grows in South-East-Africa and Asia. In China the plant is known as “Ju Ruo” and in Japan as “Konyaku”. The Konjac plant blossoms in mountain and hilly landscape (approximately 800 m above sea level) of subtropical regions with temperatures above 16 °C. It grows for example in the rainforest in Indonesia, in monsoon areas in Southwest China and also in Japan. In China, Konjac has been known for more than 2000 years as a plant or vegetable with medicinal proper¬ties. In Japan, Konjac has been an established food for more than 1500 years. Glucomannan is the natural main component of the Konjac tuber and its structure is similar to pectin. We use this natural material as a thickener or to make a stable gel.

SILICA
A natural mineral that gives a wonderful glide for the skin and prevents creams from having a greasy after-feel.

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
Sounds very technical, but in fact it is the fractionated coconut oil, wonderfully light, instantly penetrates the skin. It is great in skincare formulations as it doesn’t leave a greasy feel on the skin and leaves you soft and smooth. It is a favourite for massage as it readily absorbed and is an excellent conditioner for the skin.

FLORAMAC  10 (Ethly Macadamiate (and) Tocopherol (and) Malic Acid)
This is a new dry emollient derived from Macadamia nut oil with Vitamin E and a natural apple acid. It is fantastic on the skin and acts as a natural silicone, providing a similar result. It provides a lovely “slip” – a powdery feel to the products and is particularly useful in cosmetics and mineral make-up.